Yes, of course
Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
Los Angeles, California (USA)
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
I've wondered about the genetics of Pereskiopsis too. As far as I know, Pereskiopsis spathulata has never been documented in the wild. I think either every P. spathulata in cultivation is a descendant of a single cutting of unknown origin, or P. spathulata is just a name given to unidentified Pereskiopsis species in cultivation. I got two groups of P. spathulata cuttings from different people and they seem to be the same plant. I got a 3rd group of Pereskiopsis cuttings from another source later that I'm fairly is different than the other two (it may be P. porteri). It was simply labeled "Pereskiopsis"Pereskiopsisdotcom wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:34 pm Yes, mine dealt exclusively indoors. As a Canadian, the outdoor season is limited and at the time I lived in an apartment so had no other choice but budget indoor lighting. Callousing was a reflection on the short and thin cuttings that were being sold here in Canada at the time. The same with root rot. I'm not sure if it was the genetics of the cuttings I was seeing that was making them sensitive or if I just lacked the skills at the time, but I had better success that way. Today, I root in water or just stick in any potting soil and they root fine
Interesting, I didn't know they could take frost. It really never gets below the high 30s here (about 3-5°C), so I have no personal experience with that. Neat you were growing Quiabentia, I've been curious about the genus for some time but it's hard to find. If I ever do get my hands on a cutting, I might come to you for advicePereskiopsisdotcom wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:34 pm Regarding temperatures, they can actually withstand freezing outdoor temperatures for short periods of time (just under 24 hours), but I don't recommend it. If the soil is too wet those temperatures will be fatal. They have also done fine for me at less than ideal temperatures but do pause growing. For example, I have brought in pots of 6-10 inch specimens that were snowed on hours early at temperatures in the 3-5C range with no ill effect. For comparison, the same was fatal to most of my Quiabentia species.
You're free to use anything I've said here. I don't have much more to offer, and I don't believe my this guide is definitive by any means. As I learn more, I'll update the guidePereskiopsisdotcom wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:34 pm I have a lot to update such as my grafting techniques changing, state-of-the-art LED technology, soil, fertilizer, etc. If you would like to share some of your personal grow experiences and techniques, I would be happy to update them with credit to your findings. I would be happy to elaborate on anything specifically and update the website accordingly.
Los Angeles, California (USA)
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
I did a few updates today, adding some info here and there and cleaning up some wording, etc. Thanks to Pereskiopsisdotcom for providing information about freezing temperatures. I'm still learning and will update the guide as I learn more. I also became aware today there are three generally accepted basal cacti genera, not the two I mentioned (I left out Rhodocactus). This is really peripheral here but I do plan to fix it at some point
Los Angeles, California (USA)
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
Just for fun, here's my largest Pereskiopsis. I let it grow and never cut it. It's the most habitat like Pereskiopsis I know of in cultivation. Habitat pictures of Pereskiopsis are scarce so I don't really know how close it is, but I do let it go dormant half the year like in the wild. I'm curious to see what it eventually turns into. I think some Pereskiopsis are upright and most(?) are sprawling
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Los Angeles, California (USA)
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
Hi Shane,
10 years back, I used to grow massive quantities of Pereskiopsis indoors, and a lot of it was in pure rainwater.
In experiments I ran, I was able to grow and keep it happy for a year in rainwater alone. Here's an image I made early in the experiments.
This image was one of a set I made as art prints but it shows the roots of the Peres just fine. Root rot is almost impossible in healthy, non-stressed Peres.
10 years back, I used to grow massive quantities of Pereskiopsis indoors, and a lot of it was in pure rainwater.
In experiments I ran, I was able to grow and keep it happy for a year in rainwater alone. Here's an image I made early in the experiments.
This image was one of a set I made as art prints but it shows the roots of the Peres just fine. Root rot is almost impossible in healthy, non-stressed Peres.
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- Note the Pereskiopsia happily growing in the test tubes
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Zone 10, Sydney Australia
I love the Mexican Miniatures best!
I love the Mexican Miniatures best!
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
Hey Traveller would it be possible to get some pereskiopsis off of you if you have excess? Can’t find it here.
Ferocactus best cactus
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
I use unrooted new off shoots as graftng stocks. Unrooted off shoots show higher grafting success rate than that of rooted ones.
I start the preparation early spring. Actually I did it yesterday.
Photo 1: I have kept 48 Pereskiopsis stocks to harvest new off shoots.
Many off shoots grew last autumn but they can not use as grafting stocks because of not new.
Photo 2: I cut-back all old off shoots.
Chicken manure pellets were fed and watered. New off shoots will be formed in October.
I use a gauge and cut 15 cm length off shoots for grafting stocks.
I start the preparation early spring. Actually I did it yesterday.
Photo 1: I have kept 48 Pereskiopsis stocks to harvest new off shoots.
Many off shoots grew last autumn but they can not use as grafting stocks because of not new.
Photo 2: I cut-back all old off shoots.
Chicken manure pellets were fed and watered. New off shoots will be formed in October.
I use a gauge and cut 15 cm length off shoots for grafting stocks.
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- IMG_1398 - Copy.JPG (220.58 KiB) Viewed 9107 times
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
Nice forest up there!
Have you ever had a Pereskiopsis been in bloom from these old plants? Is there any chance for us to see this thing potted with flowers?
Have you ever had a Pereskiopsis been in bloom from these old plants? Is there any chance for us to see this thing potted with flowers?
If your cacti mess in your job just forget about the job.
°C = (°F - 32)/1.8
°C = (°F - 32)/1.8
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
Unfortunately I have never seen Pereskiopsis flowers from these old stocks.
- Aeonium2003
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2021 2:53 am
- Location: Central California
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
If anyone can send me cuttings, that would be appreciated. Cuttings are now selling for $20 per piece. It's rather difficult to get. Shane, I sent you a PM
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
How long do people wait to water young pereskiopsis after repotting? I ask because I don't want them dry out any longer than they need to as they only have a few leaves.
Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide
By young I'll assume you mean fresh cuttings. I pot fresh cut Pereskiopsis in moistened soil, place the pots in a humidity box (clear plastic tote box with lid) and keep somewhere warm (California summers in the shade). The cuttings will root before a week passes and the soil doesn't dry. I open the lid once rooted (but keep covered if grafting) and I'll keep the soil from drying out so long as the temperature is warm.