Watered too much? Other than rainfall, I water about 2 or 3 times a year. Also on one of the arms, there is a scar that looks like what you would expect if I took a piece of string, wrap it around the arm and "choke" it. Why? Thank you
Yellow Organ Pipe
Yellow Organ Pipe
I have an Organ Pipe that was planted a year ago in my yard. The plant is about 30" high. The cactus has gradually turned a yellow color over most of the plant. I live in SW AZ 30 miles from Organ Pipe National Cactus Monument so the cactus location can be ruled out.
Watered too much? Other than rainfall, I water about 2 or 3 times a year. Also on one of the arms, there is a scar that looks like what you would expect if I took a piece of string, wrap it around the arm and "choke" it. Why? Thank you
Watered too much? Other than rainfall, I water about 2 or 3 times a year. Also on one of the arms, there is a scar that looks like what you would expect if I took a piece of string, wrap it around the arm and "choke" it. Why? Thank you
Hi Zeke- I guess a few things occur to me. Perhaps the plant hasn't become established in its new home? Specimen size and rescue plants sometimes respond well to extra TLC for the first few years, some fertilizer and extra water, etc. The root system needs to become re-established.
Sometimes plants turn yellow due to chlorosis, usually a sign of soil pH being too high.
The monstrous Lophocereus schottii in my neighborhood here in Tempe seem to turn slightly yellow over much of the stem during the winter, so maybe your thruberi will green up when spring comes?
It could be an adjustment to North/South orientation as well, with parts of the plant that were facing north previously now facing south and getting more intense sun.
So those are a few suggestions. Can you post a picture?
peterb
Sometimes plants turn yellow due to chlorosis, usually a sign of soil pH being too high.
The monstrous Lophocereus schottii in my neighborhood here in Tempe seem to turn slightly yellow over much of the stem during the winter, so maybe your thruberi will green up when spring comes?
It could be an adjustment to North/South orientation as well, with parts of the plant that were facing north previously now facing south and getting more intense sun.
So those are a few suggestions. Can you post a picture?
peterb
Zone 9
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CoronaCactus
- Posts: 10421
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- Location: Corona, California USA [Zone 10]
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What do the habitat plants look like?
Any yellowing on them?
My first guess would be the cool temps., But Steno's will usually turn purpleish at the tips before going yellow...???
As for the string markings...Was it a rescue plant? Arizona residents could probably better answer this, but we've bought plants in AZ before and some come with a yellow tag (usually attached with string) to indicate they are legal rescue/habitat plants.
Any yellowing on them?
My first guess would be the cool temps., But Steno's will usually turn purpleish at the tips before going yellow...???
As for the string markings...Was it a rescue plant? Arizona residents could probably better answer this, but we've bought plants in AZ before and some come with a yellow tag (usually attached with string) to indicate they are legal rescue/habitat plants.
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thecactusdoctor
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:15 pm
- Location: Phoenix, Arizona
- Contact:
Yellowing stenocerus thurberi
Many times when columnar cacti are being transplanted their roots get damaged and cause it to go into shock which can cause the yellowing to occur. In the past I have treated several of my clients thurberis by applying a fish, sea kelp and alphalfa fertilizer around the base of the cactus once a month for abut three to four months betwwen April and October. After the secod month of treatment I have always been able to see a vast improvement in the colouring and overall growth in each individual case. The fish is high in nitrogen and will help to bring back the vibrant green colour. [quote][/quote]
"Keeping your cacti alive and healthy"
Hello zeke1312,
I also feel, that I could contribute a bit of what I have learned thus far. There are a few "common sense" points that apply to cactus growing and transplanting.
1. Try to keep as much of the lateral roots as possible. This will aid in the formation of new feeder roots.
2. Plant close to the original depth line
3. Give some supplemental watering and/or shading if necessary.
Oftentimes columnar cacti are planted too deep and with the main roots severely shortened, in order to ease transplanting. Applying water too soon will then hasten the demise of the plant. Also, the part of the cactus that was originally below the soil line does have a different, sometimes more woody epidermis that that of the above ground part. If you preserve the root system as well as possible, you should also make sure, that the weight of the plant, while transplanting it, is not resting on the roots. This is especially important when transplanting heavy barrel cacti, e.g. Ferocactus spp.. You avoid this problem by having the plant body rest at planting level on two boards with a gap in between them through which you can manipulate the roots and fill in the soil.
I do not know what the conditions of growing cacti are where you live. The problem you are having seems to be caused by the plant not having fully established itself. There is even a chance, that despite having done everything correctly, your plant may not like the location you are trying to grow it in. Also, some plants bleach a bit because of the intensity of the sunlight they are exposed to during the summer and then regain some of the green color during the fall months. Newly transplanted cacti will do better if they receive some shade at least during the hottest times of the day. Does your plant show any sign of severe dehydration and is it well-anchored in the ground, i.e. did it form roots to support itself? Usually it does take one to two growing seasons for the plant to fully re-establish itself.
Harald
I also feel, that I could contribute a bit of what I have learned thus far. There are a few "common sense" points that apply to cactus growing and transplanting.
1. Try to keep as much of the lateral roots as possible. This will aid in the formation of new feeder roots.
2. Plant close to the original depth line
3. Give some supplemental watering and/or shading if necessary.
Oftentimes columnar cacti are planted too deep and with the main roots severely shortened, in order to ease transplanting. Applying water too soon will then hasten the demise of the plant. Also, the part of the cactus that was originally below the soil line does have a different, sometimes more woody epidermis that that of the above ground part. If you preserve the root system as well as possible, you should also make sure, that the weight of the plant, while transplanting it, is not resting on the roots. This is especially important when transplanting heavy barrel cacti, e.g. Ferocactus spp.. You avoid this problem by having the plant body rest at planting level on two boards with a gap in between them through which you can manipulate the roots and fill in the soil.
I do not know what the conditions of growing cacti are where you live. The problem you are having seems to be caused by the plant not having fully established itself. There is even a chance, that despite having done everything correctly, your plant may not like the location you are trying to grow it in. Also, some plants bleach a bit because of the intensity of the sunlight they are exposed to during the summer and then regain some of the green color during the fall months. Newly transplanted cacti will do better if they receive some shade at least during the hottest times of the day. Does your plant show any sign of severe dehydration and is it well-anchored in the ground, i.e. did it form roots to support itself? Usually it does take one to two growing seasons for the plant to fully re-establish itself.
Harald
The cactus was planted a year ago and appears to be firmly anchored in the ground. It was not planted too deep and does not appear to lack water (maybe too much but I doubt it). The plant looks to be stressed and needs some type of food to return its color. Will "standard" Wal*Mart type cactus food be OK?
Thanks
Thanks
In my opinion, regular fertilizer - with an N-P-K formula showing the second number as being the largest - will be fine. We do have a cactus club member who does have beautiful cacti and only will use Miracle Grow fertilizer, nothing else. Maybe he has tried out various formulations and had the best success with that specific brand. What I always hear, is to use the fertilizer at half strenght, i.e. if the instruction states: "place 1 tablespoon of fertilizer per gallon of water", you would only use 1/2 tablespoon instead. Your plant may or may not respond to the fertilizer, depending on the root system it has developed since the transplant and also on whether or not it is actively growing at this time of the year. Maybe the yellowing is only temporary and will decrease by itself with the next growing season in spring.
Harald
Harald
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Lewis_cacti
- Posts: 1711
- Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:00 am
liquid seaweed emulsion fertilizers are also excellent. they supposedly (according to label) 'reduce transplant shock' and are also high in trace elements. again, as they are highly concentrated, they should be applied at half the recommended strength. Its the only fertilizer i give my cacti (other than a few slow release types) and they seem to really love it. 