Hanazono wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 3:03 am

Pelecyphra species are not difficult to keep and they are also easy to root.

That is true frank but this plant is not a fresh cut from a vigorous mother plant or from a graft. This one will respond much more slowly I think. But it will work if done correctly.

It's not a very vigorous specimen from what I can see. I would re-cut and treat as a cutting. You will get a better response from the new cut higher up were I have indicated. You must let the cut dry out for about 1 month in bright shade. The plant WILL NOT suffer. After that plant it in a very sand...

Are you saying calcium phosphate will slowly become available in soil and that is enough to supply cacti with? All of my cacti have a soil component. I'll follow your lead and mostly disregard for now, but I do hope to one day see a clear chemistry explanation of how phosphate and calcium interact ...

Did you happen to ask him about phosphorous binding with calcium (in all forms)? It's hard for me to ignore the clear organic chemistry basis: calcium (acetate, carbonate, etc) have all been shown to bond with phosphorous making each into a more slow release form the soil needs to break down. You s...

Premature corcking, probably due to small watering. Notocactus ottonis origined from southern Brazil, Uruguay and Paraguay in grasslands where year precipitation in high enough that's why in collections plant usually suffer from excessive dryness. I have a Notocactus herteri outside. It gets tons o...

Urea has 46.7% N Ammonium sulphate has 21% N Calcium nitrate has 17% N Potassium nitrate has 13.8% N Ammonium nitrate has 35% N You can work out what you want from there. if you want to acidify or stop alkalization use more Ammonium and/or urea If you want to reduce acidity or stop it from falling, ...

The beige areas around the base indicate premature corking, typical for mixes containing too much soil and organic material. Lean out the mix by adding mineral gravel -- pumice (the best if you can find it), granite gravel, or calcined clay granules. My default recommendation is a 50% soil/50% mine...

Btw - what role does urea nitrogen play and is ammoniacal superior because it removes one more step of conversion through hydrolysis? Urea can be taken up by plants directly and they use the enzyme urease to convert it to ammonium. Nickel is required in this process. Urea is also converted to ammon...

From [url=https://www.reddit.com/r/sanpedrocactus/comments/119f5ju/ However, in containers, it's harder for nitrifying bacteria to survive and it's best to do a little bit of the work for them and just feed directly with nitrate." That is incorrect. Nitrifying bacteria are perfectly able to su...

Conophytum is winter growing - summer dormant. They should look almost dead in summer. No water!
In autumn they shed their skin and become plump and green again. You can water then but not too much.

Steve Johnson wrote: ↑Wed May 08, 2024 5:17 am

Looks good to me. How about you, Mike? Dexter -- if Mike gives us the thumbs-up, go for it.

Looks fine as long as Ca and Mg are coming from somewhere...

A few thoughts.. -50/50 perlite/cactus mix is very lean. These are heavy feeders. I would suggest a gravel, loam, organic mix for them with good drainage. They may be growing too slowly. -The organic part of the potting mix may have broken down too much and hold too much water and not enough air. pe...

C And D wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2024 4:01 pm The Turbinicarpus that no one likes
Turbinicarpus horripilus
IMG_1762.JPG

Gymnocactus horripilus is a beautiful plant.

It need nitrogen. If you cannot afford ferts at this time, use 1 part urine to 10 parts water. No joke. Only suitable for outdoors.

I would sow aztekium, pelecyphora and lots of ariocarpus. As many as I could get. But it's never too late......