Windowsill and patio growing
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
The flowering season for Arrojadoa multiflora (started in December) is finally winding down:
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
.......... however, the tip cuttings that are currently rooting are producing new flower buds:jp29 wrote:The flowering season for Arrojadoa multiflora (started in December) is finally winding down ..........
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
This species produces large and plump fruit:jp29 wrote:
Tacinga inamoena ssp. subcylindrica (sensu lato) growing in 3¼" (8cm) square plastic pots
Equal parts washed, coarse pumice and cocopeat
- Minime8484
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- Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 12:09 am
- Location: Chandler, AZ
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
My A. multiflora are blooming now too and also have a few buds forming. A. rhodantha is also slowing down with just one developing now. No A. dinae flowers in a while though.
A. penicillata and A. bahiensis just pouting and refusing to flower at all this year!
Yours are beautiful as usual!
A. penicillata and A. bahiensis just pouting and refusing to flower at all this year!
Yours are beautiful as usual!
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
I always find the waxy flowers of arrojadoa fascinating, too bad they need so much warmth in winter
yours look lovely
yours look lovely
With apologies to the late Professor C. D. Darlington the following misquotation springs to
mind ‘cactus taxonomy is the pursuit of the impossible by the incompetent’ - Fearn & Pearcy, Rebutia (1981)
mind ‘cactus taxonomy is the pursuit of the impossible by the incompetent’ - Fearn & Pearcy, Rebutia (1981)
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Re: Windowsill and patio growing
How warm do they like it? I have some that don't like going below 50F, or even 60F. Those I have been bringing in from the greenhouse each winter. Do they still need a lot of light and less water during the winter? How hot can they stand it during the summer?...and how much fresh, circulating air do they require?Arjen wrote:I always find the waxy flowers of arrojadoa fascinating, too bad they need so much warmth in winter
yours look lovely
Catch a falling star--but don't try it with a cactus!
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
Please refer to my cultivation notes (sig link). I have, on occasion, grown all Arrojadoa species outside here in Tucson where the winter nights sometimes get (slightly) below freezing -- but then I throw freeze cloth over them. Otherwise (and mostly) I treat them as I describe in my Cultivation notes. But that is here in southern Arizona where cold nights are usually followed by warm, sun-shiny days that rejuvenate the plants. Additionally, our winters are mostly very dry with abundant daily sunshine. For me, plants of this genus have no problem handling the fierce Tucson summers -- 100°F+ (approx. 38°C+) days with 75°F+ (approx. 21°C+) nights -- with occasional 110°F+ daytime temps -- under 30% shade cloth (which I find provides optimum shading and air circulation here). As always, your own growing environment, substrate choice, type of containers, climate, plant staging and light intensity are the determining parameters for successful cultivation.fanaticactus wrote:How warm do they like it? I have some that don't like going below 50F, or even 60F. Those I have been bringing in from the greenhouse each winter. Do they still need a lot of light and less water during the winter? How hot can they stand it during the summer?...and how much fresh, circulating air do they require?Arjen wrote:I always find the waxy flowers of arrojadoa fascinating, too bad they need so much warmth in winter
yours look lovely
Last edited by jp29 on Wed May 13, 2015 5:29 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
Coleocephalocereus purpureus makes a nice, compact windowsill plant
Coleocephalocereus purpureus growing in 3¼" (8cm) square plastic pots
Equal parts washed, coarse pumice and cocopeat
Coleocephalocereus purpureus growing in 3¼" (8cm) square plastic pots
Equal parts washed, coarse pumice and cocopeat
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
of course, I should have mentioned the difference in growing context.I have, on occasion, grown all Arrojadoa species outside here in Tucson where the winter nights sometimes get (slightly) below freezing -- but then I throw freeze cloth over them. Otherwise (and mostly) I treat them as I describe in my Cultivation notes. But that is here in southern Arizona where cold nights are usually followed by warm, sun-shiny days that rejuvenate the plants.
I live in the netherlands, cold and moisture go hand in hand here, no warmth in months.
your coleocephalocereus look amazing!
With apologies to the late Professor C. D. Darlington the following misquotation springs to
mind ‘cactus taxonomy is the pursuit of the impossible by the incompetent’ - Fearn & Pearcy, Rebutia (1981)
mind ‘cactus taxonomy is the pursuit of the impossible by the incompetent’ - Fearn & Pearcy, Rebutia (1981)
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
Great plants James!jp29 wrote:Coleocephalocereus purpureus makes a nice, compact windowsill plant
Coleocephalocereus purpureus growing in 3¼" (8cm) square plastic pots
Equal parts washed, coarse pumice and cocopeat
Thanks for show.
Best wishes
K.W.
We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars.
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
I am currently recovering from my third abdominal surgery. That episode, coupled with my difficulty walking due to lower leg edema and deteriorated knees dictates that my potted plants must be light weight due to my winter maintenance regimen which involves staging my plants indoors on south facing window sills at night, and during cold days, and carrying them outside to the patio for the benefits of sunshine and fresh air during the 60°F+ (approx. 16°C+) days that we frequently experience during our Tucson winters.
My cactus and succulent collection here at our small retirement Town Home consists mostly of miniature species, growing in small containers, maintained indoors on south facing window sills in 2" (5cm) - by 3" (7.5cm) deep, 2¾" (7cm) and 3¼" (8cm) square plastic pots, or outdoors in plant boxes under 30% shade cloth as weather conditions dictate.
I have selected the plants that I grow according to the following criteria:
1. Relatively "shrubby" and thin stemmed species that are of light weight.
2. Do not require a cold winter rest to produce flowers.
3, Can be grown to maturity - producing flowers and fruit - in small containers.
4. Approx. 12 inches (30 cm) maximum height.
5. Can be easily propagated via cuttings or freely produced offsets.
Current plant selection:
I now have to prepare to drastically reduce my "Town Home Collection" of plants before they become primarily winter windowsill staged plants. My current plan is to maintain one or two specimens of my very favorite Brazilian Cacti and Madagascar Euphorbias in carry trays as depicted below:
Arrojadoa dinae growing in 2¾" (7cm) square plastic pots
Arrojadoa dinae in bud, flower and fruit
Pereskia portulacifolia growing in 2" (5cm) - by 3" (7.5cm) deep square plastic pots
Pereskia portulacifolia growing "bonsai style"
Euphorbias - left to right - growing in 3¼" (8cm) square plastic pots:
E. cylindrifolia x didieroides, E. sakarahaensis, E. cylindrifolia ssp. tuberifera
Euphorbia cylindrifolia x didieroides
Euphorbia sakarahaensis
Euphorbia cylindrifolia ssp. tuberifera
My cactus and succulent collection here at our small retirement Town Home consists mostly of miniature species, growing in small containers, maintained indoors on south facing window sills in 2" (5cm) - by 3" (7.5cm) deep, 2¾" (7cm) and 3¼" (8cm) square plastic pots, or outdoors in plant boxes under 30% shade cloth as weather conditions dictate.
I have selected the plants that I grow according to the following criteria:
1. Relatively "shrubby" and thin stemmed species that are of light weight.
2. Do not require a cold winter rest to produce flowers.
3, Can be grown to maturity - producing flowers and fruit - in small containers.
4. Approx. 12 inches (30 cm) maximum height.
5. Can be easily propagated via cuttings or freely produced offsets.
Current plant selection:
I now have to prepare to drastically reduce my "Town Home Collection" of plants before they become primarily winter windowsill staged plants. My current plan is to maintain one or two specimens of my very favorite Brazilian Cacti and Madagascar Euphorbias in carry trays as depicted below:
Arrojadoa dinae growing in 2¾" (7cm) square plastic pots
Arrojadoa dinae in bud, flower and fruit
Pereskia portulacifolia growing in 2" (5cm) - by 3" (7.5cm) deep square plastic pots
Pereskia portulacifolia growing "bonsai style"
Euphorbias - left to right - growing in 3¼" (8cm) square plastic pots:
E. cylindrifolia x didieroides, E. sakarahaensis, E. cylindrifolia ssp. tuberifera
Euphorbia cylindrifolia x didieroides
Euphorbia sakarahaensis
Euphorbia cylindrifolia ssp. tuberifera
- Minime8484
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- Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 12:09 am
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Re: Windowsill and patio growing
Good to have you back, James! And, great photos - do you use a photo box with a blue background, or just a blue piece of paper, or ??
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
Thanks Tristan. Actually I just use one of my trusty reference books ..........Minime8484 wrote:Good to have you back, James! And, great photos - do you use a photo box with a blue background, or just a blue piece of paper, or ??
.......... remove the tattered old dust cover .........
.......... prop it open slightly and position the plants against it as a background
- Minime8484
- Posts: 1395
- Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 12:09 am
- Location: Chandler, AZ
Re: Windowsill and patio growing
Ha! Great idea!! I'll have to find me a book that color too!
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- Joined: Sun Oct 25, 2009 7:44 pm
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Re: Windowsill and patio growing
Thanks for the tip on a background for photographing.
Catch a falling star--but don't try it with a cactus!