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Nicely done! And, thanks for sharing.

Your method resolves one problem I've always had; the Pereskiopsis wiggling around. I'm going to have to start saving twist ties. This looks promising.

I'm going to have to start saving twist ties. This looks promising.

You know you can buy that stuff by the roll and cut it to length, right? It's usually in the garden center with the tomato stakes.

(I do not have space to start grafting, but someday...)

Rebel Squirrel wrote:

I'm going to have to start saving twist ties. This looks promising.

You know you can buy that stuff by the roll and cut it to length, right? It's usually in the garden center with the tomato stakes.

(I do not have space to start grafting, but someday...)

The 99 cent store here has them on rolls too and cheaper

thank you!

One question if I may: when you graft on pereskiopsis, which way you press scion with tie? Wrap tie (somewhat tight) around stick and then pull carefully down untill it presses scion or else?

Thank you.

Bummer
All my photos are gone

Here is one to add I have done alot of degrafting lately

And it has become apparent that you have to cut way above the grafting point, since there seems to be some kind of problem with the connection that soon starts to rot after cutting.

On some, I was able to leave a nice section on the graft, that are now producing pups.

That's Brilliant! I'm going to have to try it!

This looks like a great idea. I have a couple of goofy, over-sized scions on pereskiopsis that make it difficult to tie the stock to the same stake as the scion-- one has to be farther out than the other. I think i'm going to try to solve that with your twisty tie method.

I reposted the first post, with new photos (see page 1)
To show the many methods of using twisty ties

I have just attempted my first grafting of euphorbias (1 month ago)
I did 2 grafts,
1) spraying the graft cut with distilled water after cutting, to remove milky sap
2) grafting with the milky sap present

Both grafts seem to have taken, and I can't tell which is which anymore
The stock is E. cooperi,
scoin E. sepulta E. sepulta on their own roots Hoping to make rooted cuttings of the grafted plant after it starts to produce offshoots

Mammillaria albiflora, 2 years Gary James' graft of E. tubinformis on E. cooperi

It's been over 2 years since I last posted to this thread

Let's look at some of the results.

Euphorbia sepulta on Euphorbia cooperi Euphorbia piscidermis
Maihueniopsis clavarioides on Cylindopuntia subulata

Here are some recent grafts using twist ems

This tall Turbinicarpus pseudopectinatus v. inermis would be hard to mount using any other grafting method Some other ones in the same pot, including a completely variegated Astrophytum hybrid Astropytum caput-medusae Seedlings on Myrtillocactus
Turbi. rioverdensis on left, Turbi. hoferi on right A Copiapoa monstrose head Last year's Copiapoa monstrose head
They grow fast! ---
Twist ems
These are made of light gage wire and paper, which makes them very easy to manipulate, don't use the plastic ones with heavier gage wire, they will just frustrate you because they will not hold their shape well
You can get them from Amazon here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3G ... FPA32RAR7F" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Amazing results with the euphorbias, and this method is really good!

It's grafting season
I did a bunch of grafting last weekend
4 Discocactus horstii
3 Puna clavaroides
2 Puna bonniea
1 Astro X Onzuka
1 Tephro geometricus

all for future cuttings or seeds

I wanted to graft some of last years seedlings of Astrophytums caput-meduseae and it's hybrids
but they are still too tender, since I repotted them a month ago,
which caused the death of several

I'll take pictures of them soon.

Here are some grafts from last year Yavia

Some of the grafts I did a couple weeks ago

4 Discocactus horstii I had to cut only one head this one, since it would be too risky to try and graft them together,
since you need to cut well above the graft connection when using Pereskiopsis, since the connection point is usually bad tissue. A Tephrocactus alexanderi, few downward pointing spines
and a Epithelantha cryptica offset This is what I think is a Astrophytum caput-medusae hybrid
Before After I wanted to graft one of these Onzuka hybrids
so I picked the middle one because of it's furriness I grafted it with a sweet variegated A. asterias seedling The regular Astrophytum caput-medusae is for sure one of the hardest to graft unless big.
This is a one year old seedling that was barely big enough, but with the twisty tie method I was able to make it work.