Hi,
Having lost the hylocereus base of one artificially variegated gymno, and the gyno of another a while ago, I thought I woudl try to graft the two. (I certainly wouldn't have tried it if both plants didn't conveniently proffer themselves.) I cut both, put togehter and used arubber bnd to keep them tight. Any other hints - like how often or not to water. How long does it take to work (or fail).
By the way, I came across two interesting articles on the web re these gymnos, as to whether they were mihanovichii, freidrichii or stenopleurum. One is at http://www.lapshin.org/cultivar/N25/gymn-e.htm
Apparently no consensus yet. The article asserts that Mih has a partially open yellow flower, the fr. a pinkish purplish and the steno a white one.
Grafting
You want to make sure the two cambian layers line up first of all. Also the base plant will tend to contract a bit when it dries, so be sure to dome it a bit at the top or it will push the scion off. I would recommend leaving the rubber band on for a long time -6 months at least. If you pull it off too soon, the plants slowly separate. (I did this on my one and only attempt at grafting and ruined it.)
Daiv
PS. That is a good web page you found.
Daiv
PS. That is a good web page you found.
All Cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are Cacti
Yeah...Go Grafting! I have never even had a grafted cactus in my collection until recently...well I guess I had one that got buried and died. Anyway, I got two grafts recently from Miles Anderson. One was a Turbinicarpus psuedopectinatus 'inermis', good luck on finding that one.
Here is a picture: http://public.fotki.com/Ondy/my_collect ... ued-1.html
If anyone is interested I think I can convince Miles to sell me a couple more, but I think he only has about six or 8 total left and none of them are as big as the one I kept for myself. Otherwise look for them in next year's inventory.
The other was a grafted Mammillaria lutheyi. Anyway here's the point of my story. I was given two offsets of a Copiapoa krainzianus form Miles a few weeks ago and thought that they would do better grafted. I picked up two Harrisia justbertii stocks and with a brief demonstration from Miles I gave it a try on my own today. It all went well so far as I can tell. Those Harrisias have some sharp little spines. They're attached with the rubberbands waiting on the connection. One thing Miles said was to keep it humid and out of the direct sun for a few weeks. I'm guessing it has to do with not letting the grafting stock dry and shrink too fast as Daiv mentioned. Miles had his new graftes covered in a rigged up framed box of sorts with a sheet over them. It's exciting to be exploring a new way of growing cacti.
Andy
Here is a picture: http://public.fotki.com/Ondy/my_collect ... ued-1.html
If anyone is interested I think I can convince Miles to sell me a couple more, but I think he only has about six or 8 total left and none of them are as big as the one I kept for myself. Otherwise look for them in next year's inventory.
The other was a grafted Mammillaria lutheyi. Anyway here's the point of my story. I was given two offsets of a Copiapoa krainzianus form Miles a few weeks ago and thought that they would do better grafted. I picked up two Harrisia justbertii stocks and with a brief demonstration from Miles I gave it a try on my own today. It all went well so far as I can tell. Those Harrisias have some sharp little spines. They're attached with the rubberbands waiting on the connection. One thing Miles said was to keep it humid and out of the direct sun for a few weeks. I'm guessing it has to do with not letting the grafting stock dry and shrink too fast as Daiv mentioned. Miles had his new graftes covered in a rigged up framed box of sorts with a sheet over them. It's exciting to be exploring a new way of growing cacti.
Andy
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templegatejohn
- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 2:57 pm
- Location: Leeds, England
Hi all,
I think the guys have covered just about everything for someone to be able to have a go at grafting, but I will just add that Daiv's point about the scion cambium layer and the stock cambium layer touching is the most important part, without this you will not have a graft.
However, they do not have to sit directly on top of one another. Sometimes you may be grafting a very small seedling, perhaps only a few weeks old onto a relatively large stock, obviously the circle of tissue on the seedling is much, much smaller than on the stock. This is the important part: As long as the two cambium layers touch AT SOME POINT everything will be OK.
The only way I can think of to demonstrate the point without a drawing, is think of the Olympic flag, the circles intersect over one another. That is all that is required for a successful graft.
The traditional time for grafting is May and June when the sap is rising, so to speak.
Hope I haven't confused everyone.
John
I think the guys have covered just about everything for someone to be able to have a go at grafting, but I will just add that Daiv's point about the scion cambium layer and the stock cambium layer touching is the most important part, without this you will not have a graft.
However, they do not have to sit directly on top of one another. Sometimes you may be grafting a very small seedling, perhaps only a few weeks old onto a relatively large stock, obviously the circle of tissue on the seedling is much, much smaller than on the stock. This is the important part: As long as the two cambium layers touch AT SOME POINT everything will be OK.
The only way I can think of to demonstrate the point without a drawing, is think of the Olympic flag, the circles intersect over one another. That is all that is required for a successful graft.
The traditional time for grafting is May and June when the sap is rising, so to speak.
Hope I haven't confused everyone.
John
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Bill in SC
- Posts: 2544
- Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 5:17 am
- Location: South Carolina, USA