This is a technique which I learned and am passing on. The ingredients required can be found on ebay ($6-11) and the pharmacy ($15) respectively. All in all, you're looking at $30 max for a large supply.
More growers should be quite aware of this advanced technique, I likewise learned it from some very knowledgeable and generous individuals. It can be done in a home setting via spending $11 on Ebay, $15 in a pharmacy, and using a box of toothpicks or thumbtacks.
6-Benzylaminopurine is the hormone involved.
The BAP is a very interesting hormone. This is just a simple set of instructions on how to induce branching in cacti:
First:
Mix 2% BAP Powder to 98% Lanolin over a gentle heat to form a gel.
To mix the two, measure your amounts out and first put the lanolin into a thin glass cup held at an angle, then sprinkle the appropriate amount of BAP onto the lanolin and swirl with a toothpick (to mix it well). Then take a lighter and hold the flame to the glass under the gel in a 'back and forth' type of motion, you want to warm it so it mixes up better but not cook it or melt it. I would describe it as *gently* heating.
After that, just dip a toothpick/thumbtack into the gel and scratch it into an areole in a visible amount and expect a branch within 1-6 weeks. Quickest results will be obtained when applying the BAP to new, soft growth as opposed to old corky growth.
I would also like to add that safe handling instructions should be used at all times. BAP is not particularly dangerous but it is NOT something you want to inhale, ingest, get in your eyes, etc. If the worst happens, call a poison control center IMMEDIATELY. BAP should be kept in a safe place out of reach of children and pets.
Keywords for further reading:
6-Benzylaminopurine
Auxins
Micropropagation
Orchnid "Kieki" gel
It works great and consistently in my experience. It can also be used as a spray, but has to first be activate by using lye (Which is a dangerous chemical, observe extreme caution!)
The gel formula requires NO lye and is safe so long as it is not inhaled, ingested, in the eyes, or on the skin. Wear latex gloves and put the plants out of reach of children and pets.
I hope someone finds this useful. If anyone else can add to this, please do so. It is a new technique for myself, but I can confirm and prove it is effective. This stuff is a propagation tool.
-V
Using BAP/Lanolin mixture to force branching
Using BAP/Lanolin mixture to force branching
Last edited by Variegate on Fri Sep 25, 2009 7:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I do not know how long the gel will last, I use as much as I mix..
Regarding the powder, I read the best storage is dry and cool, refrigeration doesent seem necessary. I will know if this stuff lasts at least two years before long, as another grower I know has had his this long and not used it.
Maybe someone else knows as well?
-V
Regarding the powder, I read the best storage is dry and cool, refrigeration doesent seem necessary. I will know if this stuff lasts at least two years before long, as another grower I know has had his this long and not used it.
Maybe someone else knows as well?
-V
Very interesting indeed! I read the instructions above and the only thing I'm not clear on is "scratch it into the areole".
Does this mean you actually damage the tissue (scratch the living cells) or scratch the fuzz/glochids/spines out of the way?
Does this mean you actually damage the tissue (scratch the living cells) or scratch the fuzz/glochids/spines out of the way?
All Cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are Cacti
Either or works Daiv. I have observed both to work. You dont want to overdo it and scratch the areole OFF, but some exposed green flesh within the circumfrence of the areole actually is what you're aiming for. It works in any case, exposed green tissue or not.
I have only observed one areole to soften in the entire time doing this, but its not 'rot' so much as a blemish. I still think the plant will pup, this particular plant only had the stuff applied recently.
I can also attest that it works on Brugmansia.
You may be so inclined as to try it without scratching the areole at all, but the scratch technique definitely works faster. Also bear in mind that there will be no lasting cosmetic damage on the plant after the pup forms, just dont scratch it after the first application or you may damage the primordial growing tip.
-V
I have only observed one areole to soften in the entire time doing this, but its not 'rot' so much as a blemish. I still think the plant will pup, this particular plant only had the stuff applied recently.
I can also attest that it works on Brugmansia.
You may be so inclined as to try it without scratching the areole at all, but the scratch technique definitely works faster. Also bear in mind that there will be no lasting cosmetic damage on the plant after the pup forms, just dont scratch it after the first application or you may damage the primordial growing tip.
-V
Last edited by Variegate on Fri Sep 25, 2009 7:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Haha, thanks there vaughn on all those corrections.
The extent of my use of it on grafts is a recent experiment where I cut a dying graft on Pereskiopsis down to a thin slice and applied a dab right to the fresh cut vascular tissue just to see what would happen (if anything), Im simply trying to see if it will form an adventitious bud, from either species.
Thats the extent of it, I dont see much of any application as far as using it aid in grafting. If you were to apply it around the edges of a graft, it would likely suffice as no more then some protection from drying, plus would in turn make both the stock and scion (wherever it touches) offset like there was no tomorrow, and likely push the graft right off.
I'm hearing one grower I know used the stuff on a Echinopsis pachanoi and induced some 20 offsets.. IMO this wasnt optimal, because hes going to be facing serious etiolation. No way the roots can support 20 offsets, its a small specimen he used it on, but that is just my opinion.
My specimens have just began to offset (I only recently began with the BAP) and my camera is quite cheap, so I will share my low quality photos later in the evening, but have also borrowed a photo from another grower which far better show off what this stuff can do.
I'll be posting his photo here shortly, once I figure out how.
Ok, here is what were looking at, this is using the same exact ratios and techniques stated above, 2% BAP/Lanolin. You can see several other locations where branches are forming, the residue is the BAP/Lanolin mixture.
Edit:NEW photos coming soon, bump thread for a view of what is possible using BAP. Expect new photos by Oct. 15th or so.
-V
The extent of my use of it on grafts is a recent experiment where I cut a dying graft on Pereskiopsis down to a thin slice and applied a dab right to the fresh cut vascular tissue just to see what would happen (if anything), Im simply trying to see if it will form an adventitious bud, from either species.
Thats the extent of it, I dont see much of any application as far as using it aid in grafting. If you were to apply it around the edges of a graft, it would likely suffice as no more then some protection from drying, plus would in turn make both the stock and scion (wherever it touches) offset like there was no tomorrow, and likely push the graft right off.
I'm hearing one grower I know used the stuff on a Echinopsis pachanoi and induced some 20 offsets.. IMO this wasnt optimal, because hes going to be facing serious etiolation. No way the roots can support 20 offsets, its a small specimen he used it on, but that is just my opinion.
My specimens have just began to offset (I only recently began with the BAP) and my camera is quite cheap, so I will share my low quality photos later in the evening, but have also borrowed a photo from another grower which far better show off what this stuff can do.
I'll be posting his photo here shortly, once I figure out how.
Ok, here is what were looking at, this is using the same exact ratios and techniques stated above, 2% BAP/Lanolin. You can see several other locations where branches are forming, the residue is the BAP/Lanolin mixture.
Edit:NEW photos coming soon, bump thread for a view of what is possible using BAP. Expect new photos by Oct. 15th or so.
-V
Last edited by Variegate on Mon Sep 28, 2009 12:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
Christos Cyprus
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 7:35 am
- Location: Cyprus
What are the practical uses?
It all sounds quite interesting and the "home recipe" approach is greatly appreciated.
With the danger of sounding too naive, let me ask what I think are a couple of the most basic questions:
What is the actual use and how one (or one's plants) will benefit?
Which types of plants can this be applied to? Obviously there are cacti that branch at early stage and heavily, I do not think there is a need to apply this method to, let's say Hildewintera (Cleistocactus) aureispina or a Chamaecereus sylvestrii.
I find this topic quite iunteresting and I would love to hear this method's practical application.
Christos
With the danger of sounding too naive, let me ask what I think are a couple of the most basic questions:
What is the actual use and how one (or one's plants) will benefit?
Which types of plants can this be applied to? Obviously there are cacti that branch at early stage and heavily, I do not think there is a need to apply this method to, let's say Hildewintera (Cleistocactus) aureispina or a Chamaecereus sylvestrii.
I find this topic quite iunteresting and I would love to hear this method's practical application.
Christos
A cactus is a terrible thing to waste.
Another naive question: This should be done only during active growing season, correct? I'm assuming that you wouldn't want to do this while the plant is dormant?
Also, is there a simple way to explain how this works physiologically? What does the hormone actually "do" to the plant?
Does this thread have "sticky" potential?
Also, is there a simple way to explain how this works physiologically? What does the hormone actually "do" to the plant?
Does this thread have "sticky" potential?
Beginner
Regarding application when the plant is dormant: Im not sure it would work, if it did work, it would be forced growth and likely grow etiolated, IF at all.
Regarding your second question: The basics behind it involves the hormone causing cell divison. I cant answer the question any better, perhaps someone else can.
The benefits of this are limited to two things:
1: Propagation. Create a new offset, pup, branch, etc, and hack it off, root it, rinse and repeat so to speak.
2: Aesthetics. Some plants very rarely form natural branches (depending on age). Using the BAP one could cause a plant which would not normally offset to produce a rare natural branch/side pup. An example would be a young Trichocereus Pachanoi specimen, one could cause a somewhat uncommon natural branch to form midway up the column. One could force several, and create an 'organ' type of growth.
Regarding plants that branch abundantly by nature, such as A. Subulata monstrose, this application is completely useless unless you desire a branch at a very exact location.
The applications are limited, but when one wants several branches on a particular plant, or several cuttings/offsets, it can be very valuable when used appropriately.
I have offsets on all sorts of areoles at this point, Im still waiting for some decent growth before I share pictures.
-V
Regarding your second question: The basics behind it involves the hormone causing cell divison. I cant answer the question any better, perhaps someone else can.
The benefits of this are limited to two things:
1: Propagation. Create a new offset, pup, branch, etc, and hack it off, root it, rinse and repeat so to speak.
2: Aesthetics. Some plants very rarely form natural branches (depending on age). Using the BAP one could cause a plant which would not normally offset to produce a rare natural branch/side pup. An example would be a young Trichocereus Pachanoi specimen, one could cause a somewhat uncommon natural branch to form midway up the column. One could force several, and create an 'organ' type of growth.
Regarding plants that branch abundantly by nature, such as A. Subulata monstrose, this application is completely useless unless you desire a branch at a very exact location.
The applications are limited, but when one wants several branches on a particular plant, or several cuttings/offsets, it can be very valuable when used appropriately.
I have offsets on all sorts of areoles at this point, Im still waiting for some decent growth before I share pictures.
-V
-
Christos Cyprus
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 7:35 am
- Location: Cyprus
Christos Cyprus wrote:Hi V
thank you for the reply and the insight. I see how it can be used. I have to admit though that I am always a bit reluctant in using such methods. I guess I am a bit "old fashioned" in promoting branching by chopping heads off
Christos
Of course. I would however point out, that the BAP even has an application under this pretense. When I cut the head off of a plant, I now have an element of control over both how many offsets I get and where at. One must of course be careful using the mixture, as It would be quite foolhardy to assume that forcing more then three or four branches (depending on the root system of the plant in question) would be beneficial. The BAP has its uses, but also its limits.
If you were to force too much growth of a plant, then its likely to slow it to a crawl, not to mention becoming deformed and causing thin, weak new growth. It's best used to try and follow a particular plants limitations as set by nature, for example, if you think a plant would create 2 offsets from beheading, its probably safe to force three. Another extreme would be if you had a 20 year old Trichocereus specimen with a trunk 7 inches around, in this case, it would likely be fine to force on branch from each rib.
It's a case by case application.
-V
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests