Experiments Grafting to Opuntia

All about grafting. How-to information, progress reports, show of your results.
george76904
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by george76904 »

Looking good! I just got my first graft to take (I think) and I'm waiting to see growth. If you don't mind me asking, what's your success rate?
rgiesecke
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by rgiesecke »

george76904 wrote:Looking good! I just got my first graft to take (I think) and I'm waiting to see growth. If you don't mind me asking, what's your success rate?
I don't mind at all. Thanks for the interest.

I've grafted a few rescue attempts this year that were doomed from the start, but among the healthy material I grafted by my preferred approach this spring, I currently see 1 out of 200+ scions that has died at 1 month. Most of those are Sulcorebutia and Echinopsis sp, which worked well last year. Not all show growth, but many do at this point. I got much lower success with the "Moon Cactus" Gymno variegates for some reason, when I tried those last year. Very small seedling grafts to Opuntia are also a lower success rate, and may do better grafted to new growth or even Opuntia seedlings.

I've been meaning to finish a write up of my approach.

Also, don't give up on scions until they actually fall off. This Gymno sp deteriorated gradually for a year+ before finally showing some positive progress this spring.
Bad Gymno scion
Bad Gymno scion
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These two Echinocereus reichenbachii scions were about the same size when grafted, but the smaller one is just starting new growth out of what looked like certain doom.
Bad e reichenbachii scion
Bad e reichenbachii scion
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If we talk in rootstocks, each one has multiple scions (3-4) cut from the same offset or two, which raises the chances of overall propagation success significantly.

One of the M subterranea scions on this pad failed, but the other three are thriving.
M subterranea
M subterranea
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"Horticulture, after all, is a mode of articulating and feeling time."
george76904
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by george76904 »

Thanks for the info. I grafted echinopsis pachanoi seedling to opuntia humifusa seedling (2 one of the top and one bottom) both are right at a week and looking OK, there is also one top I stuck onto pereskiopsis, that makes 3 out of 6 real attempts at grafting. Not counting the 12 or so there times I failed.
Thanks,
Will
rgiesecke
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by rgiesecke »

Here's a slow C gigantea seedling from last year, about 1mo grafted on Opuntia seedling and showing new growth.
C gigantea seedling on opuntia sp seedling
C gigantea seedling on opuntia sp seedling
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Grafting to Opuntia seedlings I usually have to remove the beginnings of Opuntia offsets a couple times before I get any scion growth.
"Horticulture, after all, is a mode of articulating and feeling time."
george76904
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by george76904 »

Nice, I've been working on a rootstock for c. Gigantea, my main question is what about degrafting. Isn't saguaro notoriously hard to root? Have you degradted and rerooted any c. Giganta specimens.
Thanks,
Will
rgiesecke
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by rgiesecke »

george76904 wrote:Isn't saguaro notoriously hard to root? Have you degradted and rerooted any c. Giganta specimens.
I have not rooted any Saguaro cuttings. Why do you want to degraft them?
"Horticulture, after all, is a mode of articulating and feeling time."
george76904
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by george76904 »

Well when they get big enough, the rootstock won't be able to support it, right? Other than that I don't see a problem with leaving it grafted.
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Robb
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by Robb »

george76904 wrote:Well when they get big enough, the rootstock won't be able to support it, right? Other than that I don't see a problem with leaving it grafted.
Eventually, the stock will just get buried under the ground. This is in my experience of using similar grafting methods anyway. BTW your grafts look great
rgiesecke.
Buying a cactus a day will keep the madness away.
rgiesecke
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by rgiesecke »

My oldest graft to Opuntia is about 1 year old, so I'm not speaking from personal experience, but what I've read (lots on cactusart about O humifusa) says that Opuntia is a good longterm rootstock that grows with the scion, so you shouldn't have to de/re-graft. As Robb said (Thanks Robb), when it becomes a matter of physical support for the scion weight you can just bury the Opuntia rootstock. Many scions put out some arial roots, and you may end up rooting from both rootstock and scion once the scion is at ground level. Maybe you could even root a C gigantea that way, on a long enough timeline.
"Horticulture, after all, is a mode of articulating and feeling time."
george76904
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by george76904 »

OK, I admit I did not know that. Thank you I will try some, as I have s nearly endless supply of opuntia seedlings and c. Gigantea
Thanks,
Will
rgiesecke
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by rgiesecke »

george76904 wrote:Thank you I will try some, as I have s nearly endless supply of opuntia seedlings and c. Gigantea
Don't expect a great success rate (maybe 1 in 10), and plan on removing offsets for a week or so before the scion takes off, but like you said both are a dime a dozen.

Also, I've lost some more scions from the batch I gave such good numbers on a few posts back... Initial losses (@ 1 month) failed to attach, then I lost some more later that had physically attached but failed to grow. Still above 95% success there though.

And I tried some Epi grafts recently, loosely following the approach shown in this video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JS-6ZEMz7fc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Pediocactus simpsonii tubercle graft showing new growth at about 9 months
P simpsonii tubercle
P simpsonii tubercle
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The same Carnegiea gigantea graft showing some new growth
C gigantea
C gigantea
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Gymno sp, grafted last fall w each scion about the same size
Gymno sp
Gymno sp
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Echinopsis sp, about 1 month grafted
Echinopsis sp horizontal
Echinopsis sp horizontal
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rgiesecke
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by rgiesecke »

All grafts from this spring, except E davisii, M subterranea, and R minuscula from late last fall.
Attachments
Sulco bicolor
Sulco bicolor
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Sulco polymorpha
Sulco polymorpha
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Sulco taratensis
Sulco taratensis
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Sulco tunariensis
Sulco tunariensis
image.jpg (43.13 KiB) Viewed 3938 times
Echinocereus davisii
Echinocereus davisii
image.jpg (36.56 KiB) Viewed 3938 times
Maihueniopsis subterranea
Maihueniopsis subterranea
image.jpg (35.68 KiB) Viewed 3938 times
Echinopsis sp
Echinopsis sp
image.jpg (43.66 KiB) Viewed 3938 times
Ariocarpus retusus seedling
Ariocarpus retusus seedling
image.jpg (33.6 KiB) Viewed 3938 times
Melocactus matanzanus seedling
Melocactus matanzanus seedling
image.jpg (23.62 KiB) Viewed 3938 times
Rebutia minuscula
Rebutia minuscula
image.jpg (48.22 KiB) Viewed 3938 times
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snarfie
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by snarfie »

How do you cut the scion and the stock? With razorblades or with a sharp knife?
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Onzuka
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by Onzuka »

Superb work, Mr. rgiesecke,. Please keep us informed of your progress.

Steve
rgiesecke
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Re: Experiments Grafting to Opuntia cacanapa

Post by rgiesecke »

Onzuka wrote:Superb work, Mr. rgiesecke,. Please keep us informed of your progress.
Thank you, I'll do that.
snarfie wrote:How do you cut the scion and the stock? With razorblades or with a sharp knife?
I use razor blades.

Actually, I've been typing things up bit by bit. Here's what I've got so far.

Rootstock Selection:
I usually graft to unrooted (but calloused) recently harvested pads of spineless Opuntia capanapa, 3-5" across (roughly 4-6" tall). Rooted pads work well, but take more space in aftercare. New growth pads from rooted cuttings work well for seedlings and narrow scions. Opuntia seedlings also work well for seedling scions.

Scion Selection:
I prefer using scions that are 1/2"-1" in width. Horizontal grafts about 1" long and very slightly wider than the rootstock pad seem to do well. Ideally an offset (or seedling/plant) 2" tall and 3/4" wide makes 4 scions: growth point upright, bottom end upside down (roots up), and two horizontal grafts from the middle. A 1/2" sphere offset makes two scions: top half upright and bottom half upside down.

So far I've gotten good results with:
-Echinocereus
-Echinopsis
-Gymnocalycium
-Harrisia
-Lobivia
-Maihueniopsis
-Opuntia
-Pediocactus
-Puna
-Quiabentia
-Rebutia
-Sulcorebutia
-Trichocereus

Rootstock Propagation:
With a cut one third of the way down the pad I leave enough bulk on the removed portion for propagating future rootstocks. Just let it callous and then stick it on/in soil.

When To Graft:
I graft to Opuntia during the growing season. Winter rescue grafts seem to take better on columnar types. Fall grafts can make a lot of sense if using unrooted pads, as they'll be firmly rooted, established, and acclimated in time for a burst of spring growth.

Grafting Process:
Sterilize:
I spray everything down with rubbing alcohol before I start. This includes:
-cutting board
-razor blades
-scions
-rootstocks
-hands
-aftercare enclosure
...and let it all air-dry before grafting. Sterilize (and dry) blades between grafts. I get about 3 pads (12 scions) of use out of each blade before discarding.

Step-by-Step:
1. Cut rootstock pad flat at 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down from the top, set aside top.
2. Place rootstock pad in cup or holder.
3. Cut scion into appropriate sections (as detailed in "Scion Selection"), placing each on the rootstock as you go. A gentle press with a slight twist should adhere the scion sufficiently with just Opuntia juice for most species. If in need of fasteners I use rubber bands and/or tape.
4. Place 2-5 scions per rootstock.

Aftercare:
Place grafts in a clean enclosure where they get little-to-no light. I use styrofoam coolers with dish racks inside. Place a small amount of water in a bottle cap to maintain humidity. Leave for 36-48hrs, then pot up and move to heavy shade for a week or two before slowly acclimating to normal light.

Maintenance:
You will likely have to remove offsets from the Opuntia rootstock from time to time, mainly in spring. These are easiest to twist/scrape off when they reach about 1/4".

Seedling Scions:
Small seedlings do best when grafted near the base of new growth pads. You can use top cuts left from the above process, once rooted and showing new pad growth, as seedling rootstocks. Using rooted rootstocks seems to help with acceptance of the smaller scions. I've also had some seedling grafts to Opuntia seedling rootstocks do very well. Seedling grafts seem to benefit from longer humidity treatment in aftercare, and a slower introduction to sunlight. They tend to try to offset rather than grow the scion, and these offsets must be removed promptly and carefully if the scion is to make a successful connection.

Epiphyllum Scions:
Epi cuttings of 2-sided species/hybrids can be grafted to Opuntia by stabbing the Epi into the Opuntia pad. First notch an edge of the Opuntia pad, then make a hole with a toothpick or somesuch. Attempt to follow the edge of the pad downwards when sticking; further into the center of the pad will work worse rather than better. Trim the Epi cutting to leave about 1" of the stem with a sharpened tip. Try to follow the shape of the woody stem, but don't try to scrape it clean. Tape the Epi cutting in place with pressure both towards the pad and downwards, so it can't slip back out. Don't top-water until you see growth. Heal in shade, keep under 50% shade once healed.
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Epi grafts
Epi grafts
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