First successful graft

[cjbaker]

I grafted a 4 month old Echinofossulocactus lloydii seedling on a Pereskiopsis stock two weeks ago, and it has started "pumping up". This is my first successful graft. I cut the stock to the height of the rim of the pot, and used a twist tie fastened with rubber bands to apply pressure to the scion; my previous attempt with no pressure failed because the scion separated. I took off the twist tie one week ago. Next time I'll use a sharper blade, and it looks like a bud is already appearing on the stock. Astrophytum asterias is next...


^ Just after grafting, two weeks ago


^ Today, swollen to twice its original size

[CactusFanDan]

Looks good, congratulations!

[Brunãozinho]

That was weel done, with me it's quite common that Pereskiopsis grows buds so you should keep cutting them.

[Onzuka]

Very well done, CJ!

Welcome to the wonderful world of grafting.

I can see why you made the cut level with the rim of the pot, but you will be well advised to use a taller stock. Pereskiopsis will pump the scion better if it has more leaves.

Steve

[cjbaker]

Thank you for the kind comments and suggestions! I will definitely try a taller stock next time. Here's an update on their progress:


The new graft on the right is an Astrophytum asterias "Super Kabuto" sown way back in December and grafted around July 10th. It wasn't doing much of anything on its own roots, but is now growing quickly. Once my Pereskiopsis garden grows to full height, most of its siblings will join it.

[Brunãozinho]

Cool, did you use the same method for applying pressure? Did they need to be put in a humidity chamber? I'm also propagatin my pereskiopsis, I do seedling grafts with hylocereus normally.

[cjbaker]

Cool, did you use the same method for applying pressure? Did they need to be put in a humidity chamber? I'm also propagatin my pereskiopsis, I do seedling grafts with hylocereus normally.

I did use the rubber bands and twist tie again to apply pressure on the A. asterias. I will need to figure out another approach if I grow the stocks taller, I know I've seen plenty of creative techniques here. I put a plastic shopping bag over them loosely for the first two or three days for humidity, keeping them shaded indoors for one week, and then out in partial sun (and then full sun). Mind you my experiments so far are limited, and I may be over-cautious, but my collection is small so I'd like to avoid losses.

[Brunãozinho]

Mind you my experiments so far are limited, and I may be over-cautious, but my collection is small so I'd like to avoid losses.

But so far you're doing good, and the more you do it, the bigger your collection will be and the more growing plants you'll have.
I'm also not very experienced with using other stocks other than hylocereus, I'm testing other species as a stock and testing different conditions too. Keep up the good job!

[cjbaker]

But so far you're doing good, and the more you do it, the bigger your collection will be and the more growing plants you'll have.
I'm also not very experienced with using other stocks other than hylocereus, I'm testing other species as a stock and testing different conditions too. Keep up the good job!

I'm very interested to hear how your tests go! I do think that my first one on Pereskiopsis failed due to insufficient pressure combined with an uneven cut. I wonder whether Hylocereus leads to less bloating than Pereskiopsis. I am on the lookout for a second host to move some of these to once they outgrow their lollipop sticks. Thanks for the encouragement, my collection is definitely "growing" quite quickly with this approach!

[Hanazono]

During the grafting process, both of scion and stock shrink and forms air-gap at the grafting joint which is the cause of grafting failure.
The pressure onto the scion can compensate the shrinkage.
Large scion will make more shrinkage and needs more pressure.

If the scion was small enough and you could slower the shrinkage speed by controlling humidity, you do not need any pressure onto the scion.
I do not give any pressure onto the scion for my seedling grafting.

Seedlings: It is possible to graft 2~3 days old seedlings but 30~40 days old will be the best selection.
Shrinkage speed control: Pereskiopsis-wet box
Hylocereus, Harrisia-paper cap

I select seed sowing timing to meet the best grafting season, considering the above condition.

[Brunãozinho]

I'm very interested to hear how your tests go! I do think that my first one on Pereskiopsis failed due to insufficient pressure combined with an uneven cut. I wonder whether Hylocereus leads to less bloating than Pereskiopsis. Thanks for the encouragement, my collection is definitely "growing" quite quickly with this approach!

Many people that graft young seedlings onto Pereskiopsis do not apply pressure on the scion.
Hanazono's explanation is very helpful, humidity control is very important to reduce the shrinkage.
Hylocereus shouldn't bloat plants like Pereskiopsis does.
I have impression that many of my seedling grafts onto Hylocereus are not joining together either because I'm not appllying pressure or because I'm making mistakes at humidity control. But I'll try some more with the paper cap suggestion that Hanazono made.

During the grafting process, both of scion and stock shrink and forms air-gap at the grafting joint which is the cause of grafting failure.
The pressure onto the scion can compensate the shrinkage.
Large scion will make more shrinkage and needs more pressure.
If the scion was small enough and you could slower the shrinkage speed by controlling humidity, you do not need any pressure onto the scion.
I do not give any pressure onto the scion for my seedling grafting.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

[Hanazono]

The attached photo is Hylocereus stocks with paper-caps.

Keep 2 weeks as like this photo, the grafting process will be completed.
Paper-caps will protect scions from direct sunlight and keep humidity around grafting joints.

Cut top of paper-caps to allow air pass through and this also can give soft light to the scion.

Although the grafting process is completed, the joint is still fragile. Keep paper-caps without top for 2 months, which will work as the physical protection.

The success rate of the grafting should be more than 95%.
Japanese cactus nurseries use this method for the seedling grafting.

[Onzuka]

Another tip when grafting onto a Pereskiopsis stock is to use one that has not been watered for a few days. Freshly watered, and hence well hydrated, Pereskiopsis will emit a bead of water on the cut face which tends to keep the stock and scion apart. In extreme, but certainly not unusual, cases, the scion will float right off of the stock and you will find it on the compost.

Steve

[cjbaker]

Thanks everyone, as always, for sharing your information and experience! I'm looking forward to trying out some of these techniques.