Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy

[Onzuka]

There's been volumes written on here about grafting seedlings onto Pereskiopsis stocks, but I promised Maja that I'd post the way that I do it, so here goes.

You need a basic toolkit



Then choose a well growing Pereskiopsis stock



Now you will need a seedling. I'd already grafted the ones from this pot that I wanted to, buy I found another reasonably desirable one. Which one would you have chosen?



Did you choose the same one as I did?



Remove the seedling from it's pot. This one has been grown in a completely mineral mix as you can see. It's got quite a good root system but it will not need it again!



Remove the root, it's only getting in the way.



Now make the cut on the Pereskiopsis stock. You need a flat, clean cut made with a very sharp blade. Use a piece of wood to push against. I was taking the pics and had to borrow my wife to do the modelling and she has never made a graft in her life and probably never will. She does not share my hobby.



You need to keep moving briskly now. Cut the scion cleanly and as flat as possible



It should look like this. By removing a minimum amount of the seedling, you will have a few more chances to regraft should your first attempt fail.



Here's a closer look. Some grafters actually graft the discarded root piece upside down and it will grow pups. I've tried this a few times and always failed. It doesn't seem possible really, but I have seen pictures of it done!



Now dab both of the cut ends with a piece of tissue to remove any excess sap. You need the cut ends in intimate contact if your graft is to succeed. Place the scion on the stock, slide it around a bit to exclue any air bubbles and place it in position being mindful of where the vascular rings are. This is probably the most precise part of the process.



Always, always, always make out a label. I always know that I will remember what it is, but ask me 3 months later!! So here's what it should look like.



Put it into the humidity chamber and leave it alone for a few days.



You the use the severed piece of Pereskiopsis to prepare a cutting. Place it in water and it will grow roots in 2 weeks. Pot it up and grow it for a further 3 weeks and it will be ready for using as another stock.



You have probably noticed that i don't have flames or surgical spirits to sterilise my blade. That's 'cos I don't use any. I wipe the blade well with the tissue and that's all I do. Maybe I'm lucky and my luck will run out, but until then, I can only show you what I do.

In my opinion, growing cacti from seeds and selectively grafting them to produce new plants and seeds is just about the most fun you can have with your trousers on, so give it a go. I'll advise you try with Astrophytums because seeds are readily available, they germinate quickly and easily and soon become easily handelable. They also just happen to be my favourite genus.

Steve

[Ivan C]

Excellent demo, Steve. I intent to try this if I can track down some Pereskiopsis. They seem to be hard to find here. Thank-you!

[promethean_spark]

It seems like certain tuberous rooted species are more likely to start growing from a root-side graft. I've had luck with Ariocarpus and Pelecyphora. Also if there are aerioles on the root side it is likely to offset. Strombocactus and blossfeldia seedlings that are a few years old (still smaller than your example plant above) can often be cut such that a few aerioles are left on the root side. The scion survives better if the root is trimmed before grafting.

[Onzuka]

I never really gave much thought to the need for arioles, PS, but your comment makes sense to me. What I find surprising is that you can mount the cut away root part upside down and it will join with the stock and produce pups. Try rooting a normal cutting upside down. I did it once with Pereskiopsis. I took many cuttings and got just one upside down. It took me a while to fathom out why just that one had not rooted. When turned over, it rooted fine.

I took a look at the graft this morning on my way to work. The scion had floated off on the sap produced by the well watered stock. I half expected this to happen. I'll redo it this evening and then it's on it's own for several days.

Steve

[CactusFanDan]

Top notch article Steve. I should take on board your idea of using that bit of wood to help cut the stock! The number of Pereskiopsis glochids I end up with in my fingers when I try to graft is unhealthy. Also your stock is a lot less spiny than mine. For keeping the scion from floating off and avoiding the need of the humidity chamber you could use cling-film stretched over the scion and the union, stretched a little and kept on with a clothes peg.

[Onzuka]

Also your stock is a lot less spiny than mine.

I have about three different types of Pereskiopsis. One has "hairy legs" and the hairs tend to get between the stock and the scion, another is very well endowed with both glochids and spines and then there is the one that you see in the pics above. I'm slowly eliminating the first two, but they do work well and at times I can be short of stocks.

At present, I'm well off for stocks and I'll not be doing that many more grafts this year. If anyone want any Pereskiopsis, send me a PM and we can see if we can work out a deal for, say, 4 plants. If you live in a cold place, remember that Pereskiopsis do NOT like the cold and suffer.

Steve

[Brunãozinho]

That seems really nice, so you don't need any glue or something to keep the graft firm?

[majcka]

That seems really nice, so you don't need any glue or something to keep the graft firm?

Actually you need a glue. It is called "an experienced hand and a bit of luck".

[paulzie32]

I have about three different types of Pereskiopsis. One has "hairy legs" and the hairs tend to get between the stock and the scion, another is very well endowed with both glochids and spines and then there is the one that you see in the pics above. I'm slowly eliminating the first two, but they do work well and at times I can be short of stocks.

At present, I'm well off for stocks and I'll not be doing that many more grafts this year. If anyone want any Pereskiopsis, send me a PM and we can see if we can work out a deal for, say, 4 plants. If you live in a cold place, remember that Pereskiopsis do NOT like the cold and suffer.

Steve

I've noticed with mine, that the amount of spines is determined by how hard I grow them. If they always have plenty of water and never dry out, they don't grow as many spines or glochids. But if they dry out too much, they get spiny.

And I noticed you don't use any weight on your scion. Do you never use weight? I don't with small seedlings, but with something the size of the seedling you grafted, I normally would put a small amount of weight. Also, you mentioned you keep them in the humidity chamber for a "few days". Do you then take them out completely and put them outside or in the greenhouse, or do you just open the lid or move them to a spot with indirect light?

[Onzuka]

There is a degree of truth in what you are saying, Paulzie. Grown hard, the leaves become small and they do get more spines and glochids. I have a type that has spines no matter how I grow it. I've also taken a look around my stocks and I seem to have eliminated the hairy legged one - good! A few years ago, I decided to let one grow and see what happened. It made 8 feet tall in a very short time and had 2 inch long razor sharp black spines. It never flowered though.

I never use weights when grafting onto Pereskiopsis, we all have developed the way that works best for us. I'll use a scion, as you can see, which is nearly the same diameter as the stock if need be. If I regraft onto Harissia, then I'll use some method of holding the scion in place for a while.

They will be in the very humid conditions for at least a week. They then go into the greenhouse in shade or partial shade for a while, usually until I see the scion swelling. A look at the graft's union tells me when they are ready for drier conditions. If it still looks wet, it stays in humidity. If the surfaces are dry and can be seen to have knitted together, they are ready for drier conditions.

Steve

[paulzie32]

Ok Steve,

I have a question for you. I grafted a few things the other day. All are looking good but one. YOu mentioned you cut as little as possible from the seedlings in case you need to regraft. Well, one of my grafts, despite being ok for the past two days, today it is looking a bit... wrinkled. I'm thinking it did not line up correctly. Would you quickly regraft or leave it and keep your fingers crossed?

[Onzuka]

Ok Steve,

I have a question for you. I grafted a few things the other day. All are looking good but one. YOu mentioned you cut as little as possible from the seedlings in case you need to regraft. Well, one of my grafts, despite being ok for the past two days, today it is looking a bit... wrinkled. I'm thinking it did not line up correctly. Would you quickly regraft or leave it and keep your fingers crossed?

My experience says that if it hasn't attached after 2 days, then it's not going to! So, take the bull by the horns, remove another mm from the stock and the scion and have another try.

Steve

[majcka]

Ok Steve,

I have a question for you. I grafted a few things the other day. All are looking good but one. YOu mentioned you cut as little as possible from the seedlings in case you need to regraft. Well, one of my grafts, despite being ok for the past two days, today it is looking a bit... wrinkled. I'm thinking it did not line up correctly. Would you quickly regraft or leave it and keep your fingers crossed?

My experience says that if it hasn't attached after 2 days, then it's not going to! So, take the bull by the horns, remove another mm from the stock and the scion and have another try.

Steve

You can try doing this until you chop it to pieces. I know I did. Then I took another scion.

[paulzie32]

What if one side lifts up but the other side connects? I've had some like this that have eventually failed, some that succeed and some that stay alive but never really take off. Like one Pelecyphora that has sat on an incline for two years and has only grown about 2 mm in that time. I regrafted and one side lifted again and again, only about 2mm of growth this year.
And why would you say they lift on one side? I had pressure with rubber bands for a couple weeks. Could humidity not have been enough or not long enough? Were the cambium rings not aligned correctly?

Next scenario... If a scion produces a root or two, would you take that as a sign of a bad union and regraft or cut the root off?

Sorry if I'm being a pest, but I'm tring to think of as many scenarios as possible to help those interested in learning and trying themselves.

[Alber khan]

What if one side lifts up but the other side connects? I've had some like this that have eventually failed, some that succeed and some that stay alive but never really take off. Like one Pelecyphora that has sat on an incline for two years and has only grown about 2 mm in that time. I regrafted and one side lifted again and again, only about 2mm of growth this year.
And why would you say they lift on one side? I had pressure with rubber bands for a couple weeks. Could humidity not have been enough or not long enough? Were the cambium rings not aligned correctly?

Next scenario... If a scion produces a root or two, would you take that as a sign of a bad union and regraft or cut the root off?

Sorry if I'm being a pest, but I'm tring to think of as many scenarios as possible to help those interested in learning and trying themselves.

My recent ferocactus graft has also lifted from one side,but that side is not 'hollow' but connected to the stock by some kind of green tissue.